Foundation preparation:

The base must be strong and not have through cracks. The base surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, lime, oil, grease, bitumen, residues of organic and mineral adhesives and paints, as well as water-soluble substances. When leveling polymer-gypsum screeds, the surface must be sanded until the filler grain appears to create an adhesive layer. The final cleaning of the base from dust should be carried out with a vacuum cleaner. Be sure to pre-insulate the leveling layer of the floor from the walls and partitions at a distance of 1.5-2 cm with thin strips of polystyrene foam or wooden slats in plastic wrap. Beacons must be set to determine the required leveling level. The surface to be leveled must be treated with a primer. The quality of the primed surface is determined by the absence of water absorption for 20-30 minutes.

Mortar preparation:

To mix the dry mixture, use water from the drinking water supply. Mixing ratio: 0.24-0.3 l of water is required per 1 kg of dry mix (4.8-6.0 l per bag). Pour the dry mixture into a pre-measured amount of water at room temperature and mix for 3 minutes using an electric mixer or an electric drill with a nozzle with a rotation speed of not more than 600 rpm until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The leveling agent can also be prepared by machine using mixing and blowing machines with a continuously metered water supply.

Application:

Work is recommended to start from the wall farthest from the exit. The mass of the leveler is poured in parallel strips to the wall with a width of about 50 cm. The connection time between two portions should not exceed 10-15 minutes. For a better distribution of the leveling compound over the surface, use a wide trowel or spiked roller. With manual thick-layer leveling, it is recommended to install beacon rails and work with the mortar mixture with a minimum amount of mixing water. The mortar mixture is placed between the lighthouse rails and leveled with a rule. Laying is done in stripes through one in a checkerboard pattern. The skipped strips are laid only after the previously laid strips have set. Before this, the lighthouse rails are removed: the role of the lighthouse rails is performed by the surface of the laid solution of adjacent strips. Work must be carried out without interruption, observing the maximum pace. The functional suitability of the floor is not reduced if rare microcracks are formed without the leveler peeling off from the base. When used in bathrooms and bathrooms, surface treatment with waterproofing mastic is necessary.

Any overhaul begins with leveling the floor and walls, because in Russian apartments, especially in the secondary real estate market, uneven surfaces are, unfortunately, a common occurrence. It is especially important to prepare the perfect floor before laying tiles: tile or porcelain stoneware - in bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. Often, for this it is necessary to completely dismantle the old coating and screed.

The cheapest way to make the floor even is to re-create the concrete screed. The building mixture can be prepared independently from sand, cement and water. Additives like expanded clay or lime glass increase the strength of the structure. In addition, there are ready-made dry mixes for various purposes on sale, which are enough to dilute with water in the right proportions and immediately start laying. A concrete screed is indispensable if you want to level a surface with a large slope, pits and blisters.

However, it takes from one to three weeks for the concrete coating to dry completely. In addition, when choosing this method of floor screed, you will have to take care of waterproofing and subsequent surface grinding.

Modern developments allow you to reduce the drying time of the coating to three or four days, as well as save you from unnecessary trouble and additional time spent on finishing the floor. This opportunity is provided self-levelling compounds. This is a special polymer composition that is easily distributed over the surface, quickly hardens on it and provides perfect adhesion to the monolith.

Blends fall into three categories:

• compositions for rough processing, which are applied in a layer of up to 2 cm to get rid of coating defects, slope and "waves" on the floor;
• top coats that are not very durable and therefore applied in a thin layer for the best effect - a perfectly even and smooth surface;
• special mixtures to eliminate significant flaws: large cracks, bare reinforcement. Such compounds give great strength and high adhesion.

Self-levelling compounds are sold in packages of 20 and 25 kg. To lift 1 m² per centimeter, you need one such bag. Thus, you can roughly calculate how much material you will need to carry out repairs. More detailed information is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so do not be too lazy to study it before starting the repair.

For construction and repair work, you will need a level, a container for preparing a leveling mixture, a drill with a nozzle and the ability to set low speeds, measuring bowls or household scales, suitable spatulas (30 cm wide spatulas with a long handle are best), a metal mesh for reinforcement, dry mix in the right amount.

It will not be superfluous to purchase a spiked roller: it will allow you to get rid of air bubbles that reduce the strength of the future structure. Also, special needle soles will not interfere, which will allow you to move around the room without carrying construction debris.

Preparatory work for leveling the floor

First you need to prepare the room for repair: take out the furniture, dismantle the plumbing. You should also ventilate the room in advance, since during the construction process you will not have such an opportunity: when leveling the floor, in no case should drafts, high humidity and temperature drops below + 5 degrees be allowed. After airing, close the windows and hang a damp sheet on the door to prevent dust from spreading throughout the apartment.

To ensure that the new floor covering is as durable and reliable as possible, It's important to take the time to clean up. Carefully remove everything that may interfere with the floor screed: dust, debris, remnants of the previous coating, paint and oil stains. By neglecting this step, you run the risk of making the new floor as uneven as the old one. Vacuum properly and pay special attention to the corners of the room.

If there are chips, cracks, voids, potholes or other defects in the monolithic base, they must be puttied before starting work, and then the excess of dried putty should be removed with sandpaper.

You can easily find a suitable putty at any hardware store. Ideally, it is desirable to prepare and apply a primer mix, also referred to as a "primer". It acts as a base and impregnation, and also improves adhesion to the leveling compound. Due to the special composition of the primer, the leveling solution will dry faster and more evenly. Spread it evenly with a wide spatula and let dry. Prevent the formation of puddles by spreading the thick mass on the floor in a timely manner.

After the room has been cleaned and the flaws carefully covered up, you can start measuring. It is best to use a laser level: this device projects a height mark around the entire perimeter of the room, so you do not have to do long calculations and crawl on the floor with a tape measure. It is enough to install the device at the highest point in the room, and then screw the self-tapping screws into the floor at the desired height in increments of 20-30 cm and tie an ordinary rope between them to always see the zero mark.

In the absence of a laser level, a less technologically advanced water level is also suitable, but in this case it is advisable to purchase a long meter, at least 1 meter.

If you want to make the floor stronger, do not forget to lay a metal mesh. It is placed overlapping on the floor, and the pieces are interconnected by wire. The mesh is needed when it is required to raise the level by more than 2 cm. It enhances the adhesion between the monolith and the future floor covering. To correct minor defects, you can do without it.

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly. Prepare the self-levelling compound according to package directions. For best results, carefully follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. Too liquid mixture will take longer to dry and will not provide the desired strength. If, on the contrary, there is less water than necessary, all the work of leveling the floor under the tiles will go down the drain: the mixture will fall in lumps, and the surface will have to be leveled again.

To mix the composition well, use a mixer nozzle and a drill at low speed or a concrete mixer, if you have such an opportunity. It is undesirable to cook the entire mixture at once, as it hardens rather quickly. It is better to mix in small portions - for one or two rows.

The resulting mixture must be spread over the floor, starting from the far wall in parallel and gradually moving towards the door. Smooth the solution with a spatula, and then roll with a spiked roller to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the composition.

Please note that the mixture begins to set within 10-20 minutes after pouring, so be quick and do not be distracted from work. It is also advisable not to cover the entire room with the solution at once, but to distribute it gradually in order to better smooth and form a flat floor. Of course, you can work in pairs or hire a team of specialists who will do everything you need much faster.

If you are working on your own, try to pour in the new strip before the previous one dries, so that the surface is even and seamless. You can also try pouring the leveling agent in indented strips. As the mixture spreads, the gaps will be filled with excess, and there will be no seams on the floor.

The composition must be applied in a layer of 5 to 20 mm, so that the resulting surface is strong enough and dries quickly. If you use a thinner layer, the floor will be fragile and unreliable, and large volumes of mortar will stretch the repair indefinitely, since the composition will harden too long and unevenly. In the process, do not forget to check the level so as not to deviate from the zero mark.

After application, the mixture will harden within a day and dry completely in 3-4 days, provided that you have not violated the temperature regime in the room. More detailed information about the properties of the composition is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. When the self-levelling compound dries, you can begin to decorate the floor with tiles.

In the process of facing work, you will need a tile leveling system (SVP), which simplifies the laying of tiles with your own hands. There are many opinions about this innovation. Let's figure out what it is and how to use it.

This device makes it easier to remove a flat surface.

What it is

SVP is used when laying tiles and is designed to facilitate the task of the master in relation to the removal of the ideal level. A similar device replaces. It has the form of wedges with clamps and consists of two parts.

The basis is spacers that regulate the position of the tile relative to neighboring elements. However, in order for them to be of real benefit, the position is fixed with the help of wedge clamps. The tile is exposed so that differences in height are leveled, and the glue is evenly distributed under the coating. In other words, the system averages the position of neighboring tiles, which allows you to achieve a flat surface.

Large elements are laid on a double layer of glue, otherwise the system will not cope with the task.

Even a non-professional tiler will be able to implement SVP

Advantages and disadvantages

Such a device has managed to win the recognition of the masters, however, some still reject its use, considering it not only useless, but also complicating the process of laying tiles. To understand the appropriateness of the application, consider the advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of SVP:

• Flat floor. Allows you to set the optimal level in the plane. This not only affects the quality and appearance of the masonry, but also increases the life of the coating. Setting the level with this device is much faster and easier than using traditional methods.
• Same seams. The base of the system is inserted between the tiles, and therefore perfectly replaces the plastic crosses. The exact distance between the fragments is fixed, the same over the entire area.
• Even distribution of glue. If the floor surface is not perfectly flat, this disadvantage is leveled by the adhesive composition. The solution fills the voids and disperses over the plane if there are protrusions on it. This is especially true when a thick layer of glue is used, since it is quite difficult to manually perform such work.
• Prevents tiles from sagging. Even after the surface has dried, the floor will retain its level and will not sag under the influence of loads.
• Fixes the tile during drying. Ordinary masonry, drying out, changes its position: sags, shifts, jumps around the edges. Clamps eliminate this drawback and firmly press the tile to the base, fixing it in one position until the fasteners are removed.

There are many advantages to such a system.

The disadvantages of the method:

• time spent on installing and removing wedges;
• difficulty cleaning the seams;
• additional expenditure of money for the purchase of SVP.

System differences

There are two types. The first is the standard economy option. The second is more advanced and improved. Standard SVP is used in most cases, especially if there are no significant differences on the surface to be lined. The base element has a flat base and is clamped on top with a wedge. Thus, the position of the tile is fixed, the same seams are set, and small irregularities are smoothed out.

The premium-class system, in addition to being more expensive, has a specific structure - the base of the inter-seam insert has a curved shape. At first, this seems like a disadvantage and is puzzling, why is it better? However, despite the fact that the base initially displaces the tile, after fixing it with a clamp, self-alignment occurs. The plate is bent as much as necessary for even laying of tiles and distribution of glue relative to existing floor defects.

How to use

The tile leveling system is very easy to handle. Of course, when laying tiles with your own hands, a beginner will need more time to expose all the elements, but it guarantees an excellent result on the basis of masonry.

The technology involves the use of special tools

How to use SVP:

1. Apply adhesive to the floor surface with a notched trowel.
2. Place the first tile and fasten two SVP bases along the edges.
3. Put down the second one.
4. Secure the inserts with wedges. Do the same on the other side.
5. Adjust the clamp until it is firmly fixed.
6. Clear the seams from the adhesive composition that has come through, without violating the position of the tile.

If you do not remove the adhesive at the joints of the tiles, after drying it will be very difficult to remove, and this will affect the strength of the coating.

Whether such a device is necessary or you can do without it is up to you. If you want to get a smooth surface, you should use all available methods.

How to level the floor and lay ceramic floor tiles with your own hands

Are you planning to tile in your bathroom or elsewhere? Worried about uneven floors, let's find out how to level the floor and lay tiles on a leveled base ...

To level the floor and lay the floor tiles, you will need the following tools and materials.
1) - Container for dilution of leveling agent and tile adhesive.
2) - Overlay spatula, wide spatula 25-30cm + notched spatula
3) - Drill with a mixer nozzle for the preparation of leveling
4) - Needle roller (when leveling a large area)
5) - Tile cutter
6) - Pliers or tongs (break off tiles when fitting)
7) - Safety glasses
8) - Roulette, square and marker (pencil)
9) - Level short and long (not less than 1 meter)
10) - Rubber spatula (for grouting)
11) - Sponge (for grouting)
12) - Grout
13) - Primer
14) - Smoother for rough leveling (if the height difference is more than 1.5 cm)
15) - Self-leveling rover
16) - Tile Adhesive
17) - Ceramic floor tiles + crosses (used to create a joint of a certain width)

First you need to determine if the floor is level. To determine the slope of the floor in a small room, a level is enough. By applying the level in different directions from the walls to the center, we find out if there is a slope.

If there is a slope and it is large enough, we need to pre-level the floor. For rough floor leveling, there are special levelers, they are called "For rough leveling"

How to determine how much floor leveler you need?
To do this, you can act according to a simple scheme, one bag of leveling agent weighs an average of 20-25 kg. According to the instructions of different manufacturers, on average one bag is enough to raise the level by 1 cm with an area of ​​1m2. In any case, we read the material consumption on the packaging and, taking into account the data obtained, we make our own calculations.

Floor preparation for leveling
Before leveling the floor, it must be cleaned of dirt and dust, after which the floor must be carefully primed and allowed to dry. The primer is best used impregnating.

floor leveling
A small volume of the floor can be leveled without the use of special metal beacons. The main thing is to know exactly where the floor has the biggest dip.

To simplify the work, you can pre-make beacons from gypsum in the form of rounded bulges aligned to the level, pouring the leveling agent you will be guided by them, trying not to overfill the leveling agent more than necessary.
Smoother for rough leveling floors are best cooked in a round and tall bucket. In a bucket with the required amount of water, the dry mixture is poured in parts and stirred with an electric mixer. The solution should not be too liquid.

You need to fill from the far wall, moving towards the exit.
Using a level, the slope is checked, and with a wide spatula, the leveler is smoothed over the entire floor area.

After a layer of coarse leveling agent has been laid, it must be allowed to dry and covered with primer.
Self-levelling screed
Now it's time for a self-leveling leveler, this leveler fully lives up to its name, since when it is poured into the floor, it spreads in the direction that has a slope, due to which the base is completely leveled.

The self-levelling leveler is prepared in the same way as the coarse leveler, the only difference is that it has a more liquid and fluid consistency. When filling the floor with a self-leveling leveler, we use the same principles as with a rough one.

A spiked roller can be used to help spread the leveler over large areas, it removes air from the mortar and allows it to spread more evenly.
Self-leveling leveler dries quickly enough, in any case, the substrate must be completely dry before laying the tiles, after which it must be primed.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor.
If you do not pursue the goal of laying out a certain type of pattern on the floor, then it is best to start laying tiles from the farthest corner.

Before using ceramic tiles, it can be soaked in water, this will increase the time of movement of the tiles when laying them.

We prepare tile adhesive in small portions, as the adhesive dries quickly in the process and becomes unusable. We apply glue with a notched trowel to the floor, so that 1-2 tiles can be laid.

If the floor is not level, or goes downhill, you can continue laying the tiles by increasing the thickness of the adhesive layer. The main thing is not to increase the thickness of the adhesive to unacceptable sizes specified in the manufacturer's instructions.

Therefore, it is necessary to check in advance using a long level whether the tile is going to increase the adhesive layer.

We put the tile on the glue, pressing a little and, as it were, screwing it in, if you need a seam, then do not forget to install crosses between the tiles, laying 2-3 tiles in a row, check their horizontal with a level.
Gradually laying row after row, we move to the exit from the room.

How to cut ceramic tiles.
A tile that is not suitable in size is cut with a tile cutter. Having made several passes along the cut line with a tile cutter, we break off the tile.

If it is necessary to remove a small part of one of the sides from an already cut piece of tile, you can use pliers or pliers, wearing protective goggles first.

Grasping the edge of the tile with tongs, chip off piece by piece along the entire length.
You can cut a corner fragment in a tile using a grinder with a stone disk, for this you need to make a cut on one side, and make a notch on the other with a tile cutter, after which the fragment easily breaks off.

Remove adhesive residue from tiles and joints in a timely manner
When laying the tiles, make sure that the seams and the tile itself are clean, try not to leave excess glue on the tile, and even more so in the seams, if there is excess glue, remove them.

The seam can be cleaned with a spatula using a cloth or sponge. Remove the glue before it dries.
After laying the entire tile, the glue must be allowed to dry, for this we look at the instructions on the packaging of the tile adhesive. And only after the glue has dried, you can proceed to the jointing of the seams, followed by their grouting.

Jointing and grouting
After laying the tiles on the glue, no matter how carefully you work, the glue can still appear somewhere in the seams, in order for the grout to lay evenly and the seams to be beautiful and even, it is necessary to grout the seams.

You can make the stitching with the help of an overlay spatula.
Having cleaned the seams of crosses, excess glue and debris, you can start grouting the seams.
Having diluted the dry grout with water, we get a pasty mass, pouring part of the mass onto the floor, using a rubber spatula we disperse the grout at the seams.

The movement of the spatula in relation to the seam should be made obliquely. Having processed the entire floor (if it is not a very large area), let the grout dry a little, after which we wash off the excess grout from the tile with a damp, carefully wrung out sponge and draw it along the seam, the seam should not be recessed and protruding.

The sponge must be constantly rinsed, for this it is advisable to have a bucket of water with you. After washing the entire tile with a sponge in this way, let the grout dry completely, after which the tile can be finally washed.

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Fashion trends in the decoration and design of apartments and houses. Popular styles of finishing materials in design in the new season...

If you plan to lay tiles on surfaces with height differences, then you need to level the tiles. To do this, use both specialized devices, and carry out the process independently. On the methods of leveling tiles and the technology for their implementation, we will consider further.

Tile leveling system: device, advantages and disadvantages

With the help of the tile leveling system, it is possible to perform laying much faster, and the surface at the same time, is characterized by evenness and the absence of drops. This system, according to the principle of operation, replaces the crosses that were previously installed in the seams, and has the form of wedges on which there are clamps. The main part of the system is wedges in the form of spacers, with the help of which it is possible to adjust the location of the tiles on the surface. To fix the position of these elements, the second version of the wedges is used - clamping. Thus, it is possible to install and fix the tile in a certain position. Thus, the surface, after laying the tiles, becomes perfectly flat.

When laying large tile parts, they should be covered with two layers of glue. This system has a large number of advantages and is becoming quite popular among both beginners and professionals. In order to study the feasibility of using a tile leveling system, we propose to study its advantages:

1. Getting a perfectly flat floor. With this advantage, it is possible to achieve perfectly even floor tiles. The appearance of the masonry is improved, and the quality of operation of the floor covering is also improved. The process of installing tiles is accelerated, and the work on its implementation becomes easier.

2. On the surface of the floor there are seams of the same size, the tiles look perfect. At the same time, the use of crosses for seams becomes impractical. The distance between the tiles is the same on any part of the floor.

3. The glue is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor, to level the uneven surface of the floor, an adhesive composition is used, distributed over the surface. With the help of the solution, it is possible to fill all the voids that form on the floor. Without this system, ideal distribution of glue on the surface cannot be achieved.

4. Laying the tiles in this way prevents the tiles from sagging during use. Even heavy loads on the floor surface do not lead to its subsidence.

5. Fixing tiles in position is another advantage of this system, which is difficult to achieve when laying tiles by hand. After the tiles laid in the usual way have dried, displaced or sagging areas appear on the floor. By using a tile leveling clamp, this shortcoming can be eliminated. The tile is installed in the position necessary for us and is in it until completely dry.

Despite this, this system has certain disadvantages, namely:

• time spent on installing and removing clamps;
• the seams, in this case, are filled with glue and need additional cleaning;
• to purchase a system, you will need to spend additional funds, which is not always profitable, especially if you need to install tiles in a room with a small area.

Varieties of do-it-yourself tile leveling systems

There are two options for systems for leveling tiles. The first one is the cheapest and most commonly used. It is used if the surface is characterized by the presence of small differences in height. In this case, a wedge is used to clamp the base element, and the tile itself is installed on a flat base.

The cost of the second version of the tile leveling system is much higher. This system has a peculiar structure, the shape of the inserts is curved. Thus, it is possible to achieve self-alignment, without additional manual intervention. The leveling of the plate occurs automatically, while laying tiles on the floor with a large number of defects is allowed.

Video tile alignment system:

The application of this system is simple, although it requires additional time for its installation. However, the result is worth it. To install this system, follow these steps:

• apply adhesive to the tile with a notched trowel;
• install the tile and attach the leveling system to it;
• lay the second tile;
• use wedges to fix the inserts;
• install inserts on both sides of the tile;
• adjust the clamp until the inserts are firmly fixed;
• calculate the seams in relation to the adhesive composition that has come through.

Please note that the adhesive must be cleaned from the joints during the tiling process. Otherwise, it will take a lot of time and effort to remove it.

The technology of using the system of laying and leveling tiles

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for laying tiles with your own hands using the leveling system:

1. Initially, the surface should be prepared, it should be cleaned of dust and dirt, and also degreased.

2. In order to increase the level of adhesion of the adhesive to the surface, the floor should be treated with a primer.

3. Glue, you need to prepare using the instructions. Since otherwise, there may be problems with its drying and strength.

4. Apply glue to the floor, according to the thickness specified in the instructions. Before installing the tile, install two clamps on the floor, stepping back from the edge of the tile one centimeter.

5. Install the second tile in the same way, between them is a wedge-shaped element installed between the upper and lower parts of the clips. Fix the wedge in the desired position.

6. Note that the bottom of the wedge must be firmly fixed to the surface. It is with its help that alignment is carried out.

7. In the same way, install other wedges under each tile. The wedges are removed only after the glue has completely dried.

8. In order to get rid of wedges, a tool is used in the form of a hammer, chisel. Make removal of clips in the longitudinal direction in relation to seams. After removing the wedge, the lower elements remain under the tile.

9. Waste clips are used only once, after removal they are thrown away. Wedges can be used many times. Please note that for successful alignment, the room should create optimal conditions for temperature and humidity conditions. The presence of temperature less than 15 degrees and the presence of high humidity is not allowed.

Floor preparation and leveling

Before you start laying tiles, you should prepare the base for this process. First of all, the floor or walls on which the tiles are laid must be perfectly even. Only in this case, it will be possible to avoid swelling or deformation of this finishing material.

If the condition of the floor is critical, then it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and install a new screed. Preparing the floor for laying tiles is accompanied by the need to use tools in the form of:

• spatula;
• instruments for measuring the floor;
• putties;
• hammer;
• spatula;
• chisels;
• gloves.

Before leveling, the room must be ventilated. Next, you should take out all the furniture and other items that are on the floor. To remove dirt, dust or grease from the floor, use a blowtorch. To remove cracks or other defects, use putty. Next, you should wait until the putty is completely dry.

Next, close all windows and doors in the room. The optimum temperature for further work is 20 degrees. Most often, tiles are laid on a concrete base. However, it must be perfectly even. If there are differences in height of more than 3-4 cm, you should first level the floor.

Wooden base - very rarely used as a carrier for tiles. Wood - prone to high moisture and temperature changes. Also, the wood is not as rigid as to be the base for the tiles. Therefore, during the operation of the tile on the floor, its deformation is possible.

Laying tiles on old wood flooring is unacceptable. Before laying tiles, the old wood flooring should be removed. Next, install a new concrete screed.

To check the floor before leveling the floor tiles, you should use a special device - a level. There are two variants of it:

• water device;
• laser level.

Using a level allows you to determine the highest part of a floor or wall. This point is the main point for leveling the surface. The entire floor is aligned in relation to this point.

The laser level allows you to quickly determine the level of curvature of the floor. Using a water level requires the use of a pencil and a ruler to mark for alignment.

Floor preparation and leveling is carried out in this way:

• the highest point in the room is initially determined;
• then you should draw lines on the walls from it, based on them alignment will be carried out.

1. Self-levelling compounds - the first and most popular method. These compositions are in the form of a dry powder, they have a cement base. These compositions allow you to prepare the base for laying decorative flooring.

There are two variants of these compositions:

• the first - less fluid, allow you to get rid of differences in height up to 4 cm;
• the second - should be applied with a thin layer, with their help, the final alignment is performed.

Each of the compositions needs a thorough cleaning of the floor from dirt and a primer on their surface. To prepare the composition, you should study the instructions and combine the dry composition with water in the desired proportion.

For the sake of improving the smoothness of the composition, one should not violate the proportion. Since these operations will negatively affect the quality of the coating obtained. The composition will thicken very quickly, so it is recommended to cook it in portions.

Work is carried out in a completely closed room. A spatula is used to level the mixture. These compositions are easy to use, I quickly level the floor. However, their only drawback is their high cost. Therefore, in order to save money, another way of leveling the floor is used, which we will discuss later.

2. The second leveling method is to use a cement-based screed. This method is appropriate if the height differences are more than five centimeters.

The use of this method is relevant if the floor is quite uneven. In order to correct the curvature, it will take a lot of work. In addition, with the help of cement mortar, it will be possible to save a lot.

After preparing the floor and marking, the beacons should be installed. Most often, they have the form of an ordinary flat wooden beam. The first beacon is installed at a distance of 2-3 cm from the wall. The second beacon is installed at a distance of 60-70 cm.

To check the evenness of the installation of each of the beacons, use the level. If there are differences between the beacons, a bar is supplied under them. After installing the beacons, a cement mortar should be prepared. To do this, you will need Portland cement and clean, dry sand. The proportions for their connection are one to three. Start work on alignment should be from the far corner in the room.

Please note that the presence of moisture in the sand will adversely affect its quality characteristics. Therefore, sand for the manufacture of screeds must be absolutely dry. Next, you should cover the floor with a plastic film.

If you plan to level the floor made of wood, then for the manufacture of the screed you will need to mix glue with sawdust. If the floor has deformed over time, then this composition is the ideal solution. After that, you should wait for the self-leveling compounds to dry, this will take from 1 to 5 days. After the floor has dried, proceed to laying the tiles. For additional floor leveling, leveling tile crosses should be used.

Using the above methods, you can also align the walls in the bathroom under the tiles. However, a simpler and more reliable way is to use special floor leveling systems for tiles.

Video tile alignment: